schwartz



NOV.` f3; 1931. s, SCHWARTZ R. 18,241

FABRIC 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 Original Filed March 27. 1929 O O O l O I C C O O O O I O O l C O O O O O l O I I O I I Nov.l3, 1931. s. SCHWARTZ l Re- 18,241

FABRIC original Filed March 27. 1929 s sheets-sheet s www @S/Cf A TTU/iwf YS.

Reissuecl Nov. 3, 1931 UNITED STATES SAMUEL SCHWARTZ, or ALBANY, NEW YORK' FABBIC Original application` filed March 27, 1929, Serial No. 350,193. Divdedandapplication iled July 2, :1929, Serial No. 375,494. Original No. 1,794,554, dated March 3, 1931. Application for reissue led September 2, 1931. Serial N0. 560,833.

My invention relates to a new and improved fabric.

One of the objects of my invention is toprovide a new and improved fabric having a backing made of worsted or other relatively strong non-crushable and resilientmaterial, and a face of silk or other relatively fragile and expensive material.

Another object of my invention is to pro- ,n vide a combination fabric which shall be especially adapted for use in making necktles, although my invention is not limited to this specific use. j This application is a division of my appli- ,5 cation, Ser. No. 350,193, filed 1n the United States Patent Oilice on March 27th, 1929, for improvements in fabric and method of making the same. f

Other objects of my invention will be set forth in the following description and drawings which illustrate a preferred embodiment lof my invention, it being understood that the above general statement of the obJects of my invention is intended merely to generally eX- plain the same and not to limit it in anymanner.

Fig. 1 is a diagrammaticview showing the reed which is utilized for weaving the improved cloth.

Fig. 2 is a side elevation of Fig. 1. l Fig. 3 is a diagrammatic view showing how Y the warp threads of the back fabric, and how the warp thread of the face fabric are arranged within the reed, when the weft or filler thread is inserted.

i' Fig. 4: is a diagrammatic view showing the fabric made with the satin type of weave. Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 4, showing the serge type of weave. I

Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 4 showing how the taffeta type of weave is employed. Figs. 7-9 are diagrammatic views similar to Figs. H6 respectively, a binder being employed in the embodiments illustrated in Figs. 7-9 inclusive, while no binder is employed in the embodiments shown in Figs. 4 6 inclusive.

This general type of fabric is disclosed in my previously filed application Ser. No. .zo 314,442 filed October 23d, 1928.

A' While I do not wish to'liinit myself to mate- Y i .back fabric interwoven with the y silk face fabric is that the worsted fabric isrelatively non-crushable, so that it does not readily crease, and tends to assume an unwrinkled shape, after it has been bent or creased. `The silk fabric alone can be readily creased or winkled, but the use ofthe worsted backing makes the composite fabric non-crushable.

In the embodiment shown in Fig. 4, the silk is woven to form what isdesignated as the satinntype of weave, and the worsted backing is Woven to form what is designated as the gsergetype of weave.A Every complete stroke or vibrationv of theshuttle may be considered as consisting of a forward stroke and a return stroke. Duringcthe forward stroke of the shuttle, the worsted ller thread W is caused to cross or bind one-sixth ofthe silk warp threads S, namely, two silk threads vout of eachA group of twelve. During this for.- ward stroke of the shuttle, the ller thread only weaves thel silk threads, without weaving the worsted threads or cloth. On-the return stroke of the shuttle, the shed is formed in the worsted warp threads so that the two silk threads which have been crossed or bound bythe iil'led thread, are now caused to interlock with theworsted warp thread-W associated with the corresponding group. However, I do not wish to limit myself to any particular type of interlocking weave, as long as the backing is suiiicientlyinterwoven with the facing to impart the resilience `and other desirable properties of the backing to the face. The number of silk warp threads in each group, which are interlocked with the worsted warp threads, may be varied within considerable limits, without departing from the invention. Forexample, I have found it sufficient if only one silk warp thread out of each group of twelve silk ywarp threads is caused to interweave with the corresponding VWorsted v warp thread.

It is to be understood that the silk warp thread is not bound with the corresponding Worsted Warp thread in the same dent unless the Worsted Warp thread is raised during the return Vstroke .of theshuttle. Hence, upon the forwardstrokeof theshuttle, -a satin Weave is formed in the 'silk face fabric-by binding one-sixth of. the Warpthreads therein, and upon the return stroke of the shuttle this one-sixth of the silk Warp threads is also caused to interlock with the corresponding yWorsted warpithreads. qudso', upon the re- .Lturn strokeof theushuttle, .asshed is-formed in t-he worsted Warp threads W so that the sergettype' yof Weave is formed `in the kvvorsted backing, `While interweaving 'the Jvvorstd"backr "c'lothrvivith the -silkface cloth. "'Inthis sergtypef weave, the ller thread lcrossesfortbindsf--or1e*thi1d f the Worsted Warp "threads, WheneverrI "refer "to the k'silk 'warp thread fbeing interlocked Y withv a "dent,'itis' to be understood; thatif'Y-a Afiller Alzliread'is useld for this purpose, that thel silk warp threadand said corresponding Worste'd "Warp' thread,l interlock witl the filler thread. 1 In Figs* 4,51'i have` illustratedonly 'six1 silk jwarp threads (instead of a full group of twelve' threads) lforf the f'sa'ke :ofr elearness. The lengthof'the-"Weft which `is inserted into Ythe fabric -b daksingle'movement of the shuttle 'ma}be"1es1gnatedlasf a; crosslength thereof.

In' `'the 'satin type' of Weave illustrated ilr Fig.

fi, 'eachcross-length' `ofthe Weft thread *en- A'gages two-siilk'warp' threadsinzeachJ-groupof twelve. .LI-Iencc,J Yallthesillrwarp4 threads' are *interwoven in lsix complete 're'ei-pro'cations Aof 'y l"the-shuttle, ,by six-'upper crossd'engths lofthe 'weft orierithread. f n v l Iif `Figi 4,1;it may lbeil assumed thatJthe weft thread at the lext-reine vleft'. ofthey figure lwas produce'dz by the sixth complete fre ciprocationof thefshuttlei, Whibh -isabout tot perform six additional completereciprocations, since the'sh'uttle maybe consideredasconsisting Aof anurnber-of consecutivefseriesyeach fsaid series having six-'members f 1 I T-hetop isilki'warp thread -is not. engaged by theFIilethreaduntilf the 'shuttle-has performed the'forwardfmovement' rof its sixth reciprocation. 'T'Upon f the Q' return movement *of the i-ihut'tlelinsaidfs'ixthI reciprocation,1 the top silk-[warp thread is moved vbelow-toV f the Llevel -fflthe corresponding worstedj lthread (which may ibe'fconsidered as' being fthe 'botl'tomthread 4iso that vthe silk: thread V""(an'd its correspondingrtlrread' in'iftheffull Lgrou-p of 'twelve' threads'sho'vvliiiri Figi are iiiterwovenvvvitlrthe iWorsted Warp- Vthread vcmesponding to said group Withoutmoving the*Worsted warp thread up f into the `silk @Warp which-'would `-be VYobjectionable Abecause 'the silk-#wouldfthennot-fform` a' continuous 'by fea-ch Vreturn thread? y be immaterialif the Worsted Warp threads were on top, and the silk Warp threads Were on bottom, during the actual Weaving.

Following the top silk `Warp thread in Fig. 4,1itjcanfbe seenthat it (and its corresponding-thread in the full group of twelve) are dinterlocked with the Weft thread in the sixth succeeding forward movement of the shuttle, 'Without being' interlocked or interwoven with the Worsted thread. Thev top silk Warp vthread (ant said corresponding thread) are .fagain VAinterlocked With theV weft thread, on -4 the next sixth forward movementof the shuttle, Without being interwoven with the corresponding Worsted Warp thread.

On the return stroke corresponding to the next sixth Vreciprocation of the shuttle", the 4t-W'o silk War-p threads are again moved below then-corresponding worsted Warp thread and againinterlockedby the Worsted weft thread. "Exfcliuding the Weftr thread shown at the extremeleft of Fig. 4, this illustrates thirty complete reciprocations of the shuttle. During Ythese thirty reciprocations, the weft threadengages the two silk Warpthreads five times. y

T he tWc silk Vthreads are interlocked With their correspcndingfworsted Warp thread on eacheighteenth reciprocation of the shuttle.

-Ify the -Worsted 'Warp threads were interlocked only -on each eighteenth reciprocation of the shuttle, then a loose, non-continuous WeaveV Would be formed in the Worsted Warp threads'. Hence, a shed is formed in the Worsted Warp threads upon the return strokes 'of the Shu-ile so that a' serge Weave is formed yinl the lWorsted, Warp threads, one-third of saidworsted Warp threads being interlocked cross-length of the weft vWorsted'back being interwoven with the silk facing, and .belng also independently intervvovein to produce the continuous back.

"The cloth d i agrammatically illustrated in `Fig. 5 is'similar tofthatillustrated in Fig. 4,

save that the serge type of Weave is formed in both thesilkface fabric and in thewersted back fabric.

The vcloth diagrammatically illustrated in Fig. 6 is formed in a.y manner similar to that previously described, save. that a` tati'eta type of Weave is formed in the silk fabric in which six out of each group of tvvelve'or onehalf ofthe silk Warthreads are bound at Veach forwardv stroke of the shuttle. i

In the embodiment shown in Fig. 7, a silk binder-'threadS is utilized to bind silk Warp threads S to the lWorsted Warp threadsA W.

r`A Worsted lillei'thread W is utilized.'

l"Figf' illustrates the satin type of Weave n Iig. 8 illustratesa fabric similar to that fdiagrammatically shown iii-Fig. 7, the silk being ,woven t'o form the serge type of weave.

Fig. 9 illustrates a fabric similar to that shown in Fig. 7, ,savethat the silk'is woven to form the tafeta type of weave.

l Considering for example,`the satin type of weave shown in Fig. 4, each complete stroke of the shuttle causes one-sixth of the` woven fabric of silk cloth and worsted cloth,

each element of the composite fabric forming a separate piece of cloth interwoven with the other. A y

Vhile the warp threads may vary in thickness dependent on the purpose for which it is intended, I have found it satisfactory to use No. 50/2 ply worsted, (36 ends to the inch) and to use 432 ends of silk to the inch, of a three-ply organzine silk, No. 13--15 denier.

The worsted filler may be about No. 30,'

approximately 100 picks per inch. Hence the rear facing constitutes a continuous fabric, that is, it has the samey appearance and properties as though it had been separately VVOVeIl.

CII

The composite cloth thus formed does not wrinkle as quickly as any silk cloth, and it has the ornamental appearance of pure silk cloth.

It has heretofore been proposed to Weave il silk cloth having a woolen back or a cotton iack.

However, it is new to so tightly interweave a continuous thin silk facing with a heavy wool back so as to impart the necessary resistance to wrinkling or crushing to the silk. The improved multiple ply fabric is homo'- geneous, that is, the silk and wool stretch and bend together, so that the silk is properly reinforced at all times. This makes the fabric especially suitable for making neckties or coats, as previously mentioned7 or other articles 0f wearing apparel.

As shown in Figs. 4, 5 and 6, the silk warp threads are moved below the wool warp threads at regular intervals, so that the silk war threads are thus interlocked with the woo en warp threads at spaced points along said silk warp threads, namely, in a direction parallel to the length'of the fabric. 'For example, considering the top silk Warp thread in Fig. 4, it is'clear that this thread (and the corresponding silk warp thread in its group) are -in'terlocked with one of the worsted warp threads by the same portion of the filler thread which crosses or connects the wool warp threads. This does not occur` at everyreciprocation of the shuttle, but does occur Ysufficiently to cause 'the silk facing to have the appearance of a continuous silk fab-V ric which is suflicientlyinterlocked with the wool backing to make the silk as wrinkleproof as a piece of woven wool fabric. I do not wishto limit the invention to an absolutely continuous silk facing, because in fancy weaves, small portions of the wool might be exposed without departing from the invention.

y Likewise, whenever I specify silk in the claims, I do not wish to be limited tothe use of pure natural silk, as any thin crushable material could be substituted. Likewise, whenever I specify wool .in the claims, I do not wish to be limited to the use of Apure natural wool, as any resistant and resilienttextile material could be substituted.

According to my invention, the weave is formed 1n the face fabric and the partially woven face fabric is then caused to. interlock with the back fabric. This makes it possible to use 'a much heavier face fabric land a much heavier' back fabric. Hence if the composite fabric is used for making a necktie'for example, no lining or filler is required. Likewise, if a. coat is to be made, a sufficient-- lyheavy fabric can be produced to eliminate the necessity of a lining. The silkl face'made according to my method can be woven as closely as a separate silk cloth. In the improved fabric, each thick rear warp thread corresponds to and is interwoven withA a group of the 'thin front warp threads. Selected membersof a succession of such groups of thin warpthreads are Yconnected by a length of the weft `thread corresponding to a single movement of the shuttle, and said selected membe-rs are interwoven with the rear warp threadsby the succeeding Vlength of the weft thread inserted by the return movementof the shuttle, and said succeeding length also interweaves the rear warp threads.

The silk 'threads utilized are preferably undyed and in the gum so that the shed can be readily formed with minimum interference. The old fabric having a silk facing and a cotton or wool back had relatively few warp threads pery inch, both in the Aface and of the back, in orderto weave it'smoothly. The totalnumber of warp :threads and of filler 'threads per'inch, corresponding to an ordinary single fabric.

.According to Vmy invention, the number of silk warp threads per inch, the number of worsted Warp threads per inch, and the number Of ller ends per inch, separately Ielairn, 4,

AK Hat homogeneous, multiple-ply fabrf iforWemr'1-a^a`11r lr1@Qlaprsinga fac-ine Inadeof silk, 'said"sil;k facing cornprising relat-iyely .thin silk Warp threads inter`W \'fen With ller thread, said vfabric lalso comprising a 'Wool backingf'eomprising relatively thick Wool WarpY threads' interwoven with filler thread, the silk Warp`V threads being more numerous the ,Wooljwarp threads, said silk faeig .beingisubstantially continu-` os to substantially eoneeal the Wool backing, said rvsilk yWarp threads and said Wool vwarp threads' being suiciently interwoven byintermediate .thread to form a homogeneous fabric'in which .the silk facing is'reinforced by the w'yool'ba'ckingsolthat the entire Vfabric has 'the resistance'to crushing of theV yWool bckngtq v Y ,x 2'. flat, homogeneous., multiple-lplyfab ric A,for wearingapparel, comprising a faeing Inade'of silk,said silk ,facing comprising" relatively thin silk Warp threads interwoven with .filler thread, said fabricalfso comprising aWool backing comprising relatively thick Woollwar'p lthreads interwoven with filler thread," the silk Warp Athreads bein more Iiumerous'than the .Wool Warp threa s, said silk facingbeing substantially continuous :to shstantially conceal ythe Wool-backin *,said silkfwarpxthreads andsaid Wool Warp t eads being sullic'iently interwoven by intermediate Vliller ,threadY to form a .homogeneous fabric which the Y'silk `facing is reinforced by the ,'wool backing so that the entire .fabric has the resistance to lcrashingA of fthe `Wool backlng. Y

A at,ho1nogeneo1,is, multiple-p1 rie for Wearing apparel, comprising a aeing iliade of silk, said vsilk Afacingc olnpfrisin'g relatively thin silkfwarp` :threads'interwoven thrad, Said .fcing heine substantially e911 animas te' substantially ep'nal the' w99] backing, saidHace1 warp phreadsbeilgs'uik ciently'A interwoven vat s'paoed' poirits thereof with the Wool Warp l threads, bythe Wool Jliller thread With which fsaid yvcool Warp threads are interw'oyen, t'ofform-a homogeneous fab ric in which the rushblfang iS` ienfQrCd by a@ @Q01 backipgi and me wel finer thread so ,that ,the entire fabricfhas the resistance to crshingoffthe Woolbackirfg. v

ahacking plygaidpply comprisihg Silk Vwap fail?" 'I ,i

with jiller thread, said fabricv also cornprisin ,i

afWool*backing; comprising relatirely lthie Wool `:warp ithreads', zinterwoven. with filler thread, the silkwarpzthreads being more numeroslthfanthewool warp threads, s aid'silk i y facing being substantially continuousto K subconcealthe fwool backing, saidsilk Warpn threads being,r sufficiently vinterwoven at spaced points thereof with the vool Warp threads by the lfiller thread With which said wool warp threads are interwoven, Ate form y ,ahom'ogeneous fabric' inA Nhieh'thesilk fae- 55 4ing reinforced `by the Woolfbacking so that the entire'fabric has'the re'sistaneeto crashing ofthe Wool backing. A i

ricfor Wearing apparel, comprisingI a facing l'nadeof crushablevlnaterial, said facingeom- Y 

